Wave forecasting

{
  "id": "MLC-T-MET-010146",
  "term": "Wave forecasting",
  "field": "Meteorology and atmospheric science",
  "definition": "The process of predicting future ocean wave conditions, including significant wave height, period, and direction, for a given location or region. Predictions are generated using numerical models that simulate wave generation by wind, propagation across the ocean, and modification by coastal processes. These models, such as the Wave Watch III (WW3) model, are driven by forecast wind fields from atmospheric models and are validated with data from buoys and satellites.",
  "see_also": [
    "wave modeling"
  ],
  "url": "https://mlchart.com/terminology/meteorology/wave-forecasting/"
}